Montenegro

 

The road up the mountain

We explored some of the interior of Montenegro by scaling the 3000 foot peaks surrounding Kotor. The village road we travelled was a little wider than the bus with 25 switchbacks to the top. It was a two way road so that numerous times, we or a car had to back up to reach a point on the road where we could pass. Our first stop was the village of Njegusi famous for its prosciutto ham and cheese. We had a pleasant lunch with the local red wine, Vranac (black stallion) and a shot of grappa. Then on to the former capital of Montenegro, Cetinje, capital from 1482 until 1945. We visited the former residence of King Nicolas I, the so called Father-in-law of Europe. He had nine daughters, five of whom married royalty. The residence was quite modest, the royal family wasn't very rich, but they did receive many gifts which were displayed here. We returned to Baka Bay via a two lane highway, passing by the resort town of Budva, the oldest settlement of the region.

Baka Bay from the top of the road

 

In the afternoon, we visited Our Lady of the Rocks, built on an artifcial island. They sank ships and added rocks to create this island over the course of 200 years. Our Lady saved many a seaman froom disaster. Here they came to give thanks, often with a silver plate. Over 2000  plates of silver are displayed around the interior of the church. In addition, one of the key treasures in an embroidery of gold and silver thread and the artist's hair. It took her over 25 years to complete.

We left Kotor about 4PM, arriving in Dubrovnik about 8:30 PM. Dubrovnik was the second richest city in Europe next to Venice throughout most of history. The riches were originally because of the nearby salt mines, and later it became a center for trade, shipping insurance, and pharmaceuticals. They had an intereseting Democracy, the rector was elected for a one month term and could be re-elected for up to two years. While in office, however, he could not leave the city and was separated from his family. Within the walls, they stored 15 years worth of grain, which meant that no one ever bothered to conquer the city, it was too much work. They were also smart diplomats, however. When the Ottomans controlled most of the region around them, they gave the Ottoman Bosnia access to the sea. This also separated Dubrovnik from the territory controlled by the Venetians, so there never was a war between these two powerful city-states. Only when Napolean came against the Russians in neighboring Montenegro, was Dubrovnik conquered. We walked the Old Town at night. This is the time that the locals are here drinking and eating. As we would see the next day, it was much quieter than the rush of tourists that invade the city each day.