Lorelei

Koblenz Square

We started our day in the town of  Koblenz, named by the Roman’s “the fortification on the confluence" of the Mosel and Rhine. Our first square was the location where John Luther (not Martin Luther) was beheaded. It turned out he was innocent of the crime so the clock here is a memorial to all innocents, the face sticks out its tongue on each chime.

Next door is the building that was the Jewish synagogue, only 20 of the 700 Koblenz Jews survived World War II. In front of most the former Jewish homes are stumbling stones commemorating those who died. Exacting plans were created for the “spontaneous" demonstrations like Kristallnacht against the Jews. Most people were in favor of shipping the Jews off to concentration camps. The Nazi propaganda was effective at stirring resentment against the Jews until the Allied  bombing began and the people discovered that Hitler wasn't all powerful.  We ended our tour at the statue of the spitting boy, a fountain that can get you wet, when the fountain sprays water onto the square. We enjoyed a ham sandwich on the monastery square, then walked along the Mosel river before catching our bus.

Spitting Boy Fountain

The afternoon was spent cruising the Rhine river along the castle section of the river. There are quite a variety of castles along this section. They were built primarily by prince bishops (both a civil and religious authority) to collect tolls from ships plying the river. Most were built before the 15^th century, many were either destroyed by the armies of King Ludwig or Louis, the 14^th as the wars between the French and Germans occurred. Some remain in ruins, but most have been rebuilt into residences or hotels. We passed by several hazardous sections, including Lorelei rock, where the shipping channel narrows.The story is that an attractive blond would lure the sailors onto the rocks.

Pfalz Castle

A castle legend

Many of the castles have legends associated with them:

Sir Diethelm of Burg Rheinstein was not rich but he found consolation by thinking of his beautiful daughter, Gerda. Once Gerda reached marrying age, her father often daydreamed of a rich suitor who would share his fortune with him upon marriage to his daughter.

Reichenstein Castle

Helmbrecht, eldest son of the old Knight of Sternberg Castle, lacked neither looks nor youth, but did lack riches and family fortune. However, this did not prevent him from wooing Gerda. Helmbrecht went to his uncle, Gunzelin of Burg Reichenstein, and asked him to speak to Gerda's father on his behalf. Gunzelin was a grey haired giant possessing a vast fortune. Due to the close proximity of Burg Reichenstein and Burg Rheinstein, Gunzelin was well aware of Sir Diethelm's desire regarding a wealthy son-in-law. At their first meeting, Gunzelin found Gerda so beautiful he asked for her hand in marriage.  Blinded by Gunzelin's wealth and stately appearance, Gerda's father agreed to their marriage. The ceremony was scheduled for a few days later in St. Clement's Chapel  which lies on the banks of the Rhine between Burg Reichenstein and Burg Rheinstein. However, Gerda became quite distraught upon discovering the name of her future husband, she cried aloud with anguish, and broke into tears. As everyone knows water creatures are attracted to tears from near and afar. The water-nymph who heard Gerda's sadness, knew what needed to be done.

Rheinstein Castle

On the day of the wedding, the bride and groom began their journey to St. Clement's Chapel. This route included a hornet's nest firmly entrenched
at the side of the road. As the couple approached it, the water-nymph threw a jagged rock right into the hornet's nest. As a result, the hornets swarmed and began stinging the horse, which was transporting the couple to the chapel. The horse stood on his hind legs and threw Gunzelin over a cliff to his death. Gerda was rescued by Helmbrecht who was wallowing in his sorrow near the chapel.

St. Clement's Chapel

A week later, Gerda von Rheinstein married Helmbrecht in the same St. Clement's Chapel where, after a lifelong happy marriage, they were both laid to rest.