San Antonio Missions National Park

Our primary sight for the day was the San Antonio Missions National Historic Park. This consists of four of the five missions (the fifth is the Alamo) that were established in the 1700s. Our first mission was San Francisco de la Espada, founded in 1731. We were only a few miles outside of San Antonio but this church really seemed to be in the country. The tiny church with a unique doorway and 3 mission bells on top was meant to be the sacristy of a larger church. However, the master mason left before the church could be completed. As we approached we heard the Mariachi band playing to a packed church for first communion. People were listening from outside the church. We also visited an aqueduct that carried water from the dammed river to the fields outside the mission.

Mission San Juan Capistrano

Next we went to Mission San Juan Capistrano, built in 1731. Here we stopped for mass conducted by a Scottish priest. We enjoyed the mix of an English mass with Mexican Mariachi music. The mission was white washed and again at 3 mission bells.

The best reconstructed mission was San Jose’ y San Miguel de Aguayo. Called the “Queen of the Missions”, it is a large church. Again we encountered the Mariachi band and singers celebrating first communions. Most of the original structures have been rebuilt giving us a flavor for how things might have looked in the 1700’s. Particularly impressive was the façade as well as the Rose Window. Here we also learned that Franciscan Friars originally wore a blue-grey robe, but were asked by the Pope to change to brown in the 19^th century. The park movie described how the original hunter-gatherer Indians of this area, were being conquered by the Apache coming from the North, superior warriors with horses. So they tended to turn to the Franciscan friars as a safe guard, where they learned to heard sheep, tend to cattle and plant crops. However, with the Spaniards also came the European diseases, such that 70% of the Indian population was wiped out by disease.



Mission San Jose

Our final mission was Nuestra Senora de la Purisma Conception. This church is the best preserved – it has been used continuously and best reflects its look in the 18^th century of all the missions.

Buckskin Saloon

Having had a religious Sunday morning, it was time for downtown San Antonio. We went to the Buckskin Saloon for a traditional hamburger and fries. On their walls, were lots of stuffed animal heads, most of them with some form of antler or horn. Then we walked next to the Alamo to see the Menger hotel – where many a president has spent the night and also where Teddy Roosevelt recruited his rough riders. Finally, we did the cruise along the river walk. I was expecting to be disappointed, but actually the cruise was quite informative on the buildings along the river, the history of the city, and some of the stories about the World’s Fair held here in the 60’s.