Friday, October 26, 2012

Road to Jaipur

Delhi to Jaipur is only about 150 miles, but with traffic and rest stops it will take all day to get there (7:30 till 5:00). On the road, Prashant shared some of the controversial topics about India.
Topic: Corruption Corruption is rampant, there are stories everyday in the papers of some official or another being prosecuted for corruptions and bribes. This started when the British allowed many small kingdoms to exist if they would be swear allegiance to the British, who then would provide military protection. This allowed the local raj to accumulate great wealth from their kingdoms and spend it as they pleased typically on palaces and parties. Today, it seems to take bribes to get anything done through the government offices (62% of Indians have paid such a bribe) and many businesses in order to avoid taxes or get the proper licenses from the government, end up paying bribes. In the news recently is a story about accusing Walmart of bribery in order to get permission to operate in India.
Topic: Caste System The caste system is over 3000 years old. Originally the castes were based on occupations:
  • The top caste, Brahmins, were priests, doctors and teachers
  • The warrior class, Kshatriyas, who earned protection money
  • The money-wise, Vaishyas, who were traders and land owners
  • The laborers, Shudras
  • And finally, those who weren't any any caste, the untouchables, who were garbage collectors and labored in other unclean tasks. 
Since fathers would typically share their knowledge only within their family, the higher professions would be be passed between generations. Eventually caste was determined by birth, not by profession. Since independence, there have been laws to try and break the system, including an affirmative action program for the lower castes which reserves a percentage of government jobs for these castes. But, of course, even the lowest government jobs require a high school degree. Many from the lower castes don't complete their schooling, even if it is free.
Prashant, whose name was only Prashant for 28 years experienced discrimination himself. After passing all the tests for a defense department job, he was interviewed by a colonel for final selection. As part of the interview, he was asked for his full name - Prashant was not a sufficient answer, so he gave his last name which indicates his caste (a bookkeeper, a subcaste of Shudras).  He was not selected. Caste is still part of the social fabric, most marry within their caste and vote for candidates from their caste.


Wedding couple in formal attire
Topic: Arranged marriages 80-85% of city dwellers and 95% of rural people have arranged marriages. Usually arranged by the parents based on families they know. This is because in India's culture, a marriage is not just a marriage of two people, it is a marriage between two families. Sometimes, if they can't find a suitable partner, they will advertise for a marriage partner, by caste and by age. Looking at the marriage ads in the Sunday paper, there were a profusion of ads for men and women who lived in foreign countries. Today, even with most arranged marriages the boy and girl do have the right of refusal and typically will meet several times before they marry. Generally, the bride's family is expected to provide a dowry. Historically, this was used by the bride to provide security should her husband die. But generally, the dowry becomes part of the husband's family household accounts. After the couple are married, the wife becomes part of the husband's family and typically will live with that extended family. They can visit their birth family on occasion and there is a tradition that the birth of their first child will occur at the bride's family home. In India, there is virtually no divorce, (1% or so) largely because it is culturally unacceptable. A divorced woman is held in disgrace and probably will never marry again. In fact a widow, typically stays with the husband's family and will not marry again.
Lunch was a surprise, we had it in a 19th century palace in the village of Chomu. Entering town we saw a funeral procession. Women aren't allowed, so the procession was entirely men following the covered body on its way to be cremated. Then we encountered a Hindu procession marking the start of a scripture reading. Usually a businessman is following his Guru's suggestion to have a reading of the Hindu scriptures. At the start of the reading they have a procession. What made it extremely special was that the women are dressed the same carrying a pot with a pineapple inside (for prosperity).

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