Valley of the Kings

 

El-Qum, the pyramid mountain at Valley of the Kings

Today we go to the west Bank of the Nile to the Valley of the Kings. Here are buried the pharaohs from the 18^th to 20^th dynasties. There are 64 Royal tombs dug in the 16^th to 11^th Centuries BC. under el-Qum mountain that looks like a pyramid. The length of each tomb roughly corresponds to the length of the pharaohs reign. Deep underneath they used a series of mirrors or candles to provide light for the workers. Most have 3 different levels with pictures and hieroglyphics containing the prayers of the dead and phrases for the king to find his soul. The tombs typically have 3 corridors at the bottom one filled with furniture for the afterlife, another the offering room for the burial, and finally the burial chamber itself. Each of the pharaohs were mummified. The internal organs were removed except for the heart and put in jars. The body was cured for 40 days and then wrapped in linen.  

Tomb of Ramses III

The pictures describe the journey of the dead. They journey on a boat through the 12 gates of the night. A monster is at each gate, they must have the password for each gate. The snakes gain more heads as we go deeper. The final test for eternal life is that the heart must be lighter than the sword of justice, otherwise a monster called “yum yum” will eat the heart. In the end passage, the king finally meets the gods.

One and three headed snakes

We saw these stories in five different tombs. Rameses IV was re-opened only two years ago. Ramses VI, Tut Ankh Amun the small tomb, Merenptah also known as Ramses I, and Ramses III. Given the 3500 year age of these drawings, they have amazing colors.

We then had traditional lunch at the home of a local farmer. Our host, Taha, was an 18-year-old grandson of the matriarch of the family. He has 4 uncles and 5 aunts as well as 44 cousins. We had at least 6 cousins around us ranging from 2 to 16 years old. The grandfather and grandmother moved from Aswan to this island 52 years ago. It used to flood regularly, so they brought in sand to raise the island. Now the entire family lives nearby. They grow wheat, alfalfa, sugar cane, vegetables, and fruit in three different fields. They also have 30 sheep, 2 cows, chickens, ducks, pigeons, and a water Buffalo for milk and cheese.

On their house there was a boat and an airplane commentating that the father had gone to Mecca twice. The first time, he went with his wife and 8 other women. It took 33 hours by boat and bus. The women immediately walk around the Hague the traditional seven times. They spent 2 months in the area.

Taha and relatives

Taha has been attending the Koran school, a private school. His hope is to become a doctor, but that requires a 98% grade on the final test, which he takes this Spring. He almost got a scholarship to an American University in a spelling bee in English. He reached the Egyptian semifinals but came in second after 70 rounds.

Feluccas on the Nile

We ended our day by sailing across the Nile on a felucca. We flew back to our ship that afternoon. The day ended with the Captain’s Dinner. That night we sailed from the Gulf of Suez to the Gulf of Aqaba.