Exploring Budapest

Orthodox Synagogue

This morning we visited the historic Jewish Quarter of Budapest, the area that became a Jewish Ghetto in 1944 where 10,000 Jews died. Our first stop was the Orthodox Jewish Synagogue built from 1911-13. In 1867, time of the Austria-Hungary compromise, when Hungary gained its own king, the Jews became citizens. But the following year, the Jews split into two: the Orthodox Jews following the Jewish laws and traditions, and a unique branch in Hungary, the Neologue (similar to Conservative Jews elsewhere in the world). The Orthodox synagogue is quite traditional with the Torah stored behind a curtain, the eternal light, a reading desk in the middle, and balconies for the women on the sides. The synagogue was quite spectacular in its decoration: menorah style wall paintings, floral patterns (similar to Hungarian folk art) under the balconies, and stain glass windows in the ceiling. Today, the synagogue has only about one thousand practicing Jews.

We then visited the Great Synagogue of Budapest built in 1854-9 and the second largest in the world after New York. This is a Neologue synagogue and the design looks almost like a church in order to better assimilate with the surrounding Christians. In front, there is what looks like an altar, the reading desk is in front, there are pulpits in the middle, and a large organ around the altar. Behind the church is a garden dedicated to Raoul Wallenberg who save 25000 Jews. Here are a number of memorials - the tree of life with over 4000 names stamped on the leaves and with plainly missing tablets, displaying how the Nazis had violated God's laws. Nearby is a stained glass with a snake being consumed by fire.

Great Synagogue

In the afternoon, we visited the Hospital inthe Rock. Underneath Castle Hill are many caves. In the late 1930's the caves were connected to form an air raid shelter. Later these caves were outfitted as a hospital. The hospital has been used twice - in 1944 during the Soviet liberation, the caves became a bunker for the German command as well as a hospital for the troops. The Soviets were initially stopped at the Danube when all five bridges crossing the river were destroyed. Eventually they surrounded castle hill and shelled it for 108 days. Then during the 1956 revolution, it was again used as a hospital for the revolutionaries for about 2 months. In the 1960's it was secretly expanded to be a bunker in case of nuclear war. Today there are over 2400 square meters of rooms.

View of Danube from the Citadel

After our tour of the Hospital the bus climbed to the Citadel with its gorgeous view of the city. From here we could see Castle Hill, the Parliament building, Chain Bridge, St. Stephen's Cathedral, and the Great Synagogue and a view off into the distance of the expanding city. We had our farewell dinner later that night. It was sad to realize that Hunor would be leaving us. It was clear from the outset that he was a superb guide, providing us not only with the background of what we were seeing, but also his personal stories about growing up in this region. After dinner, we went again up to the Citadel, but this time all the buildings along the Danube were lit up. What a sight! Both in daylight and at night. The city truly earns its nickname, Paris of Eastern Europe.