Tuesday, June 29, 2010

Peter's Places

Peter and Paul Fortress

Our first visit today was at the Peter and Paul Fortress, built in 1703 to start the city. It never was used to protect the city, but was primarily used as a political prison, Dostoevsky and the 1917 provisional government spent time here. Today it is largely museum space. Inside is the Peter and Paul Cathedral which is very different from traditional Russian Orthodox churches. Rather than an onion dome it is crowned by a tall spire with an angel on top. The interior also has battle flags, statues, and a pulpit, very unusual features. All the Czars since Peter the Great are buried here, including the family of Nicholas II, who were interred here on July 17th, 1998, 80 years after they were executed. All the coffins are identical white except for Alexander II and his wife, who freed the serfs.

Interior of Cathedral
In the afternoon, we visited Peterhof, built on a hill over the Gulf of Finland. The grounds are covered with 150 fountains, all gravity fed. The entire complex was built to celebrate Peter's victory over the Swedes. It was all destroyed by the Germans during the 900 day siege of Leningrad (St. Petersburg). The Great Cascade is the highlight of the fountains glittering in gold on our sunny day. There are also many trick fountains throughout the park to the delight of giggling children.
Peterhof's Grand Cascade
We also toured the Catherin block, built by Elizabeth I, but lived in by the future Catherine the Great for 16 "miserable" summers, when she was ostracized by her husband. The rooms today are primarily in Empire style with each room in a single color with gilded chandeliers. This was how Alexander decorated it in celebration of his defeat of Napoleon in 1812.

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