Rundale Palace, Latvia

 

Rundale Palace

We visited the 138-room Rundale Palace. It was built in the 1700s by Duke Ernst Johann von Biron. Numerous portraits of the Duke, his wife and generations of children were in the public rooms of the Palace. During Soviet times, the Palace was used for both a school and a grain storehouse, but it has been beautifully restored.

White Hall

Topic: Soviet Monument Removal

August, a local journalist, talked to us about the controversy around removal of Soviet monuments in Latvia. Latvia means the Land of God, and everyone wants it. This land has been invaded by German Crusaders (to turn the pagans to Christians), the Polish-Lithuanians, Swedes, and in the 19^th century the Russian Empire. The Latvian language has been the unifying element throughout history. Latvia gained independence in 1918. In 1939 the Soviets invaded the country without a shot fired. The occupiers built many monuments, usually statues of Lenin or tributes to the soldiers who won WW II, throughout the country. Beginning in the 1990s, many of these monuments have been removed, some of which are in the Occupation Museum. Streets named for Russian poets, scientists, etc. have been renamed. But there is a large Russian speaking population who objects to this “erasure of our history”, the counter argument is that “we are removing the unpleasant memories of occupation”. More info here.

Removal of Soviet Monument, August 2022

Topic: The Vikings

A Viking is best described as a Scandinavian seafarer whose was exploring, trading, and making war. The Viking period was from 750 to 1100 AD. The Viking ships were quite advanced for the age. The large ships were 100 or 120 feet long with a square sail holding 40 to 80 men. During favorable weather, they could sail from Denmark to England in 3 days.  The Vikings occupied almost a third of England and the Normandy region of France at one time. They settled Iceland, Greenland, and Newfoundland and sailed through the European rivers to as far south as Constantinople. Married women oversaw the household and farm, some also practiced various skills, like sail making. There were also powerful wise women, Volver, who advised the Viking leaders. Women had the right to divorce for unfaithfulness, violence or desertion. The Vikings left many Runestones, memorials to the deeds of various men. Over 6000 Viking Rune Stones have been found, mostly in Sweden. Why did the Vikings disappear? Because they became Christians when the Danish King Bluetooth united most of the Vikings under one King. One additional note: their helmets didn’t have horns.

11th Century Runestone, Sweden

Riga, Latvia

 

Art Nouveau Building in Riga

Riga has 700K of Latvia’s 2 million people. About 50% of the population is of Russian heritage in the city, while the country is 30% Russian.  Originally, a Livonian settlement, the Germans came in 1201, the historic founding date of the city. Today it has a large industrial port and was a Hanseatic city. Our tour began viewing some of the 800 Art Nouveau buildings built from 1890 to 1910. Most of these buildings have been beautifully restored in recent years after having been divided up into small apartments during Soviet times. Next was the marketplace inside five buildings from the 1930s in the basement are freezers and storage. We passed a Stalinist skyscraper (wedding cake) built in the 50s like what you see in Moscow.

Organ in Pulpit in Dome Cathedral

The 1935 Freedom Monument has three stars for the 3 regions of Latvia. During Soviet times the meaning was changed to the 3 Baltic states under Mother Russia. We walked to Livonian Square, with the 17^th century merchant guild building, Dome square with the Dome Cathedral, and Town Hall Square with the Town Hall on one side, and the symbol of the city, Blackhead House on the other. Dome Cathedral has a 6718 pipe, 124 stop organ built in 1884. Some of our group returned the next day for a concert. The Blackhead House was a society with St. Maurice as it’s patron saint, who was a Moor, hence the black head. Established in 1413, the first House was built in 1518. The building was destroyed in WW II, then rebuilt with donations from the Riga community in 1999.

Blackhead House

In the afternoon, we were entertained by the “smallest folklore show in the world”, so claimed because the danced on a platform about the size of a piano bench. They invited Jane, one of the passengers, to try it. Later they played a string instrument called a kokle.

That evening we had dinner with a local family: Klinta, Edgar, and their 4 year old daughter, Lela. They had both been journalists, but Klinta is now studying to become a clinical psychologist.

Tallin, The Singing Revolution tour

 

Today we covered the modern history of Estonia. Estonia became independent in 1918 after World War I. We visited Forest Cemetery the burial ground for Estonia’s writers, artist, actors, athletes, and public figures Here is the grave of Konstantin Päts, who had a mixed past. He was one of the drafters of the 1918 Estonian constitution but he was also a dictator of the country from 1934 to 1937.

The Journey 

After the 1939 treaty between Hitler and Stalin, Russia invaded the Baltic states in June, 1940. By January 1941, the Soviets deported 10,000 government officials to Russia. The Nazis then occupied the Baltics from 1941 to 1944, sending many to concentration camps, finally the Soviets defeated the Nazis regained the Baltics. In 1949, they sent another 20,000 to camps, those who refused to give up their farmland. The Memorial built in 2018 honors the victims of communism from 1940 to 1991. It begins with the journey through the names of all those who perished. Then you reach the Home Garden of fruit trees to which are added stones, marking the camps where the people were sent.

Singing Revolution, September 1988

The story of the Singing Revolution starts when Gorbachev was head of Russia and he introduced glasnost (openness) and perestroika (restructuring), hoping to stimulate the Soviet economy. In 1987 in Estonia, there were successful protests against new phosphorite mines on environmental grounds. On August 23^rd, thousands protested against the Soviet system in Hirvepark without being arrested. The Heritage Society reminded people about Estonian culture and history. While 92% of the population had been Estonian in 1944, because of the Soviet program to Russianize the USSR republics, only 60% were Estonian in 1987. In September 1988, 300,000 people showed up for a Song Festival in Tallin, where they sang patriotic songs. One third of the population showed up, singing together was a demonstration of power. (The stage can hold 25,000 and the grounds comfortably hold 100,000.) The preoccupation Estonian flag of blue, black, and white began to appear. On the 50^th anniversary of the occupation of the Baltics by Russia, August 23, 1989, a human chain of two million people stretched 600 miles across all three Baltic countries in protest. An Estonian Congress was elected which brought back the flag and the Estonian language. They established an Estonian citizenship for those with Estonian ancestry over 860K registered. But those with Russian ancestry protested in front of the parliament in 1990, they were soon surrounded by counter protestors, would this lead to violence? No, the Estonians opened a corridor through the crowd to let the protestors out. In January 1991 there was violence in Lithuania which resulted in 14 dead and many injuries. In Russia, there was a coup by Soviet hardiness and Gorbachev was arrested. Russian tanks appear in the streets of Tallin. The Estonians surround the broadcast tower with people hand in hand to keep their radio alive. Congress gathers and votes unanimously for independence. The Soviet army surrounds them, but they don’t attack, there is confusion. Meanwhile in Russia, Yeltsin declares an independent Russia, separate from the USSR, ending the coup. Each of the republics declare their independence. “We achieved freedom through song”.

Tallin Radio Tower

In the afternoon, we walked Kadriorg Park. This park was built by Peter the Great for his second wife, Catherine. On the park grounds is a baroque palace with beautiful gardens. We ended our day with vodka tasting.

Palace in Kadriorg Park

Topic: Estonia Past and Present

Estonians can get most of their services: voting, Healthcare, banking, etc. online with the use of their national ID card. The exception is getting married or divorced. In 1991, the Estonian economy plummeted after independence, the Russia Ruble had a 1000% inflation in a year. Crime rates went up. They stabilized the currency by introducing the Estonian Crown. But people each started with 100 Crowns in their bank accounts, no matter what their previous balance. A new constitution was created, and over time property was privatized as many people became entrepreneurs. The state encouraged several industries: computers, the internet and technology. The constitution separated the status of people by their heritage, full citizenship to Estonians, but an alien passport to Russians, who could vote in local but not national elections. There were Russian and Estonian schools through high school. The hope was that the Russia students would learn the Estonian language and history and become citizens. Estonia joined NATO and the EU in 2004. With the Ukrainian War, after 33 years of a dual system, this year all schools now teach in Estonian. Teachers were tested for Estonian fluency only 200 of 800 Russian teachers passed. People here are buying second homes in Western Europe concerned about Russian aggression.

Topic: Controversies of the Baltic Sea

There are several controversies shared by the nations along the Baltic, mostly dealing with Russia.

First is the fishing industry, which is very important for many coastal towns. Overfishing has made Baltic herring and cod endangered so the EU enforces regulations on what can be caught, while Russian fisherman don’t.

Kalingrad is a Russian enclave separate from Russia between Lithuania and Poland. It was a part of Germany before WW II but taken over by the USSR after the war. Over 2 million Germans evacuated the area, and Stalin resettled the area with Russian citizens. It remains a Russian military enclave in Western Europe.

There are 40,000 tons of WW II chemical weapons disposed of in the Baltic Sea in concrete containers. Will these poison the sea when they deteriorate?

There are two Nordstrom pipelines from Russia to Germany under the sea. Nordstrom 2 was sabotaged in 2022, but not clear by who.

Finally, Russia periodically jams GPS signals in the sea.

Tallin, Estonia the old town

 

Alexandria Cathedral

Our day started with a documentary on the Singing Revolution, the story of how Estonia separated from the Soviet Union over the course of 1987 to 1991. Most of us were brought to tears. I’ll leave the description for tomorrow, since we had the chance to see many of the sites in the film.

View of Tallin from upper town

Estonia has a population of 1.3 million, Tallin has 1/3 of that population. The name means "Danish Town".  It has the same latitude as Anchorage, Alaska. 80% of families own their home. We toured the old town beginning at the upper town with the Russian Orthodox Alexandria Cathedral, and Parliament. The town walls and gates are visible everywhere as we descend to the lower town and the Town Hall, next to the central square. The nobility would reside in the upper town, while citizens, city dwellers, lived within the walls. 

St. Catherine's Passage

In the afternoon, we explored the craft shops along St. Catherine’s passage, a street from medieval times. I went on to see the coastal gate and climb 250 steps to the viewing platform of St. Olaf’s Church.

The Coastal Gate

Helsinki, Finland

 

Sailing into Helsinki

After Ukraine was invaded, within a month, 90% of Finns favored joining NATO. They have an 800-mile-long border with Russia. Finland has a population of 5.6 million and has an army of 600K in a country the size of Germany. It also has 3.2 million saunas. Finns seldom smile and the joke is that they found that covid distance requirements were too close. Finland the land of 180,000 lakes was part of Sweden for over 500 years, Swedish is still the second language of the country. They were ruled by Russia from 1809 until 1917.

Musical Instruments at Oodi Library

We had an afternoon tour of Helsinki. First stop, the Oodi Library, built in 2018 to provide not only books, but workshops for learning musical instruments, a kitchen area for cooking, 3D printers, large plotters, video games, chess, a cafeteria, chess boards filled with players of all ages, etc. Outside we encountered a environmental demonstration. We went on to the Sibelius Monument, a famous Finnish composer, including the song Finlandia. It consists of 500 tubes, which could be organ pipes or birch trees. We ended the day at Senate Square where our ship is docked. In Senate Square was a demonstration supporting Gaza. I visited the Lutheran Cathedral and the City museum which gave insights into the history of the city for the last 100 years. We sailed out of the city with its 300 islands.

Sibelius Monument

Topic: Happiness and the Nordic Model

Finland has rated the happiest country in the world for six years running. Denmark is 2^nd, Iceland 3^rd and Sweden fourth. Why are they so happy? Partly because of the Law of Jante, taken from his satirical novel written in 1933. “You are not to think of yourself as anyone special, smarter, or more important. Know your place in our egalitarian society, help others.” This is often expressed by the Swedish word lagom or the Finnish word sisu: “not too much, or too little, just the right amount”. This attitude is paired with perseverance and determination and linked to honor and integrity, creating a high trust, low corruption society. The Nordic Model is also a high tax, welfare society: unemployment payments, free health care and education through university, up to 2 years of parental leave. Finland even gives a baby box filled with diapers, clothes and baby supplies when a baby is born. Welfare is typically only used if needed, people are happy with a sustainable life. When you know you have enough you are happy. The Finns were surprised that they are now the happiest country after the depression that occurred when  the USSR broke up in 1991, their largest trading partner no longer could buy their goods. Nokia cell phones and telecommunications helped end the economic crisis.

Helsinki 100 years ago

Old Town Stockholm

 

Grand Square

The entire tour group joined us today and together we visited more of Old Town. The Grand Square is the site of the bloodbath of 1520. The Danes had laid siege to the old town and the people were starving. After the Swedes surrendered, the Swedish nobles were invited to a banquet for the coronation of the Danish King as King of Sweden. Three days later, the nobles were again assembled by the archbishop, but this time eighty two of them were executed in the square. Two years later, King Vasa of Sweden recaptured Stockholm.

Golden Hall

We then visited the City Hall, site of the banquet each year for the Nobel Prize winners. The prize was created by Alfred Nobel, the inventor of dynamite, the year before he died. Blue hall is where the banquet is held. After the banquet, dancing is held in the Golden Hall covered in 18.6 million tiles. The council room was unusual for the time, it has one gallery for the citizens, another for the press to listen to the council deliberations. With 14 political parties in Sweden, everything is a compromise.

St. George and the Dragon

With our free time, we decided to explore the Stockholm Cathedral. It has been used as the coronation church for centuries.  The wooden statue (dedicated in 1489) of St. George and the dragon symbolizes the Swedish relations with the Danes: they have fought throughout the 14^th to 17^th centuries. That afternoon, we left the Stockholm Archipelagos of 20,000 islands.

Sailing out the Stockholm Archipelago

Subways and Parks

 

Lady in pink with children's art in the subway

This morning, we did a tour of the Blue Line of the Stockholm subway. This is the newest line of their system, and several stops have artwork based on different themes. The Central stop has a theme around the workers who built the metro. The King’s Garden stop has a theme around Roman ruins (even though the Romans were never here). Our third stop had a children’s theme. The artist took drawings that children had made, complete with misspellings, and enlarged them for the tunnels. Here we also talked to a local woman, who was dressed in pink, magically matching the theme. Our last stop had an environmental theme: men maintaining and destroying nature. 

Environmental theme in the subway

In the afternoon, several of us joined Stephen on Jourgarden Island, to walk through the parkland along the shore. We saw sculptures, gardens, swans, and even a deer.

Museum garden on our walk