The Octagon House

 

Octagon House

We had our last tourist stop of this trip at the Octagon House in Watertown, WI. I hadn’t been to Watertown since my senior year of high school. At that time, I took first place in the state for my knowledge of the U.S. Constitution.

The Central Staircase

The Octagon House was built in 1854 by John Richards. It has early forms of central heating, running water and ventilation. There is a cistern on the roof of the 5-story house and piping for running water, assuming it rains. The house is fitted with French doors, air vents, and a top hatch for ventilation. Each room as a stove in it with piping to the four chimneys on the roof. The Watertown Historical Society maintains the home with furniture from various times; sixty percent is originals from the family. In the yard is the first kindergarten established in America. 

The Cliff at High Cliff State Park

We continued to High Cliff State Park and had dinner with my brother, Bob, and his wife, Cindy, at the Out of Town Supper Club. We go here every time we’re in the Appleton, Wisconsin area. The most reasonable prices for drinks ($3.75 for an Old fashioned) and delicious steaks and seafood (I had the halibut).

The remainder of our trip was spent visiting relatives in Wisconsin and our daughter's family in Minnesota. We celebrated Claire's fifth birthday and noticed how tall Mallory had become at age seven. In Minnesota, we camped at Lake Elmo Reserve and made use of their beach area. 

Claire, Greg, and Mallory at Lake Elmo

New Salem State Park

New Salem Historical Park

 

Time to head to Wisconsin. We headed up Interstate 55 through central Illinois. There are a lot of sites in Illinois to learn about Abraham Lincoln including the Lincoln Presidential Library and the site of his home in Springfield. We’ve visited both, this time we went to the New Salem State Historical Park. Lincoln spent 6 years of his life in his mid-twenties in this village. 

Lincoln, the surveyor

He was a shopkeeper, surveyor, and postmaster here. He also spent a lot of time reading, eventually becoming a lawyer. He left the town to become a state legislator, the start of his political career. The park movie explained this as well as the fact that the village died soon after he left. The. Site has about 15 or so buildings, mostly recreations that represent this historical village. Unfortunately, there were no folks who replayed the characters of the town today, so the village wasn’t very exciting. The highlight of the place was the 15-minute video. We camped that night at Starved Rock State Park.

The Coopers shop

St Louis - Chahokia Mounds and Missouri History Museum

 

Monk's Mound

I had planned on going to Chahokia Mounds, the largest prehistoric Indian site north of Mexico. Unfortunately, the museum was under renovation, but we still headed out to the site since the rain of the morning had paused. This land was settled in 700 AD and became a highly structured community in about 1000 AD. This was a rich land for crops and wild game. Cahokia became a regional center from 1050 to 1200 AD with a population of 10,000 to 20,000 people. Cahokia was organized around Monks Mound, a 40 acre Grand Plaza and many smaller plazas. The mounds were made from earth dug up from ‘borrow pits’ with stone tools and then transported to create the mounds in baskets on people’s backs. Monks mound rose over 100 feet and covers over 14 acres. A massive building once stood on the top.

What Chahokia might have looked like

We then went on to visit the Missouri History Museum. This was a disappointment after the great museums we visited in the last two weeks. It seemed more like a promotion for the Missouri Historical Organization than anything. The museum is in the park that had the 1904 World’s Fair but was built later. The best of the permanent collection was the exhibit about the fair. 

Model of 1904 World Fair Grounds

But most interesting was a collection about the LGBTQ+ community and their struggles over the years in this community. It really did a great job of explaining that there are lots of variation in sexual nature. We really appreciated the video testimony of a man who became a woman after discovering that they had XXY chromosomes and was going through menopause.

LGBTQ+ Exhibit

Car Troubles

 

We left Montgomery, AL headed for Natchez Mississippi on June 1^st, but just west of Demopolis, AL we had a indicator light indicate that our car was overheating. We crept into Demopolis, bought some antifreeze and continued. But the temperature light kept going up and down from normal to overheated. So, we turned around to head back to Demopolis, but the car decided to stop running. Time to call AAA for a tow. We had lunch at about 1:00 in the trailer while waiting for the tow truck. It arrived about 3:00 and carried the car while towing the trailer on the back.

Our Car on the AAA tow truck

We dropped off the trailer in Cuba, AL on their lot and proceeded to Meridian, MS arriving at the Firestone car repair shop just before 5 PM. It was open and they took the keys and some basic information. We took an Uber to the Holiday Inn about 5 miles away. Calling in Monday morning, the manager said he probably couldn’t get to it today but would try on Tuesday. I called Tuesday afternoon, and there had been a communication issue, they hadn’t looked at it yet, but they would take a look now. Of course, we were imagining all the things that could have been wrong. Worse case had we fried the engine? What would we do? We had a trailer here, you couldn’t rent a car to tow a trailer that big. We decided we would repair the car up to an engine replacement, so we could keep camping for a few more years. About 5:30 we got a call from Firestone, the car had a leaky water pump, needed a new water pump, thermostat, and a radiator flush. The thermostat would be delivered the next morning; the car should be done that afternoon. Next day, we got a call about noon that the car was done at a cost of $1288. Another Uber ride to pick up the car and then we picked up the trailer, 18 miles down the road. We decided to do laundry at the hotel and then pick up our itinerary in St. Louis. This Natchez Trail camping trip would never spend any time on the Natchez Trail.

Our trail parked at the tow truck parking lot

We got up at 6AM this morning to get an early start to our long day of driving. We got out to the trailer and were boxed in by a vehicle and trailer in front, so while we could attach the trailer we couldn’t pull forward. And behind us was a fire truck, taking care of a diesel spill. We had decided to have cereal in the trailer for breakfast. While we were eating the fire trucks left and the owner of the car and truck in front showed up. Meanwhile the Enterprise truck next to us moved, so that we finally had a clear turn around to get out of the lot. We took most of the day to get to St. Louis, arriving just before 5 PM.

 

Gunter Hill Campground

We travelled to Montgomery Alabama, camping at Gunter Hill Campground. The Legacy Museum is built on the site of a former slave warehouse. It tells the story of blacks from enslavement to mass incarceration. It is quite an emotional experience as numerous stories are told via film, holograms, and placards.

Legacy Museum

Interesting findings:

·       In 1730 half the population of New York city had slaves.

·       Savannah, Georgia was the arrival port to half the transatlantic slave traffic.

·       Two million people died crossing the Atlantic to become slaves.

·       Congress abolished the Atlantic slave trade in 1808.

·       The domestic slave trade separated nearly half of all black families.

·       The Reconstruction period after the civil war offered a brief hope of equality for blacks.

·       Over eighty percent of black males registered to vote during reconstruction in Alabama.

·       But a series of supreme court decisions allowed state laws to ensure racial superiority for whites. 

·       Blacks could be arrested for vagrancy if they weren’t employed.

·       By 1898, 73 percent of Alabama’s state revenue came from convict leasing.

·       From 1877 to 1950 over 4400 lynchings of African Americans have been documented.

·       We read a newspaper headline about out a lynching to be held the next day. Ten thousand whites showed up to hang the man and shoot him with bullets until it ended when a bullet hit the rope.

·       In the 1960s through the nineties the Drug War and “tough on crime” bills built many new prisons that were filled by predominately black inmates.

·       The projection for the 21^st century is that 1/3 of black baby boys will go to jail or prison.

Of course, the story of Segregation was also told. It was here that Rosa Parks refused to give up her seat to a white man and was arrested. The Montgomery bus boycott led by the young new pastor, Dr. Martin Luther Jr, lasted for 11 months, one of the early civil rights protests. A sampling of the videos is available on youtube. 

Suspended tombstones - one for each county

We then went to the Peace and Justice Memorial with its suspended tombstones, one for every county where there is a documented lynching.

Each lynching

We finished our day with some Alabama barbecue at Dreamland BBQ to have some ribs. 

World War II Museum, New Orleans

 

We had an interesting trip to the World War II Museum, we had thunder and heavy rain, the streets started to flood and twice a passing truck doused our car with enough water that we were temporarily blinded. We spent over five hours at the museum seeing five main exhibits. 

Cook books and ration books

The first exhibit was about how civilian life changed prior to and during the war. We went from most people taking an isolationist stance with a slow move to supporting Great Britain against the Germans and Japanese. When Pearl Harbor attacked there was a quick change of heart and quick enlistment into the services. Soon industries changed their purposes to make tanks, ships, planes, and munitions. Goods were rationed, and people had new cookbooks based on what wasn’t rationed. 

Ships and Planes on D-Day

The second exhibit focused on D Day, the largest invasion in history. 11,000 aircraft, 6000 naval vessels and 2 million soldiers, sailors and airmen from 15 countries.  We went on to the 4D presentation beyond all boundaries which presented numerous stories about the war. 

Hopping island to island

The exhibit Road to Tokyo made us realize how close we were to losing the war with Japan. A few courageous actions and luck ended the domination of the Japanese Navy and allowed us to hop from island to island to allow our planes to attack Japan. Still based on the “die for the emperor rather than surrender” on Okinawa and the emperors refusal to surrender despite the death tolls in Japanese cities, made the choice of the A-bomb a logical choice for Truman. Finally, we went to the Road to Berlin. The many videos available in each of these exhibits made the day more interesting than reading a lot of placards.

Bombing Japan

New Orleans

 

We’re expecting rain this afternoon, so we parked near the National Jazz Museum and walked through the French Market to Jackson Square. The French Market was founded in 1791 along the banks of the Mississippi. At 10:30 AM the market was just opening since their lifeblood today is tourists. Lots of drinks, food, and souvenirs. We looked over Jackson Square with its statue of Andrew Jackson who defeated the British here, not knowing that the War of 1812 was already over. 

Jackson Square

The St Louis Cathedral is the backdrop to the square. It is the oldest cathedral in the US. 

St. Louis Cathedral

We stopped at the Café du Monde for the obligatory beignets and café au lait. (I had to sneeze when I breathed in the powdered sugar accidentally.) 

Beignets and Cafe au Lait

We headed back to the Jazz Museum. It had lots of artifacts from famous blues and jazz musicians, but we were disappointed that it didn’t have more recordings. We did enjoy those they had. We learned about the invention of the bass drum pedal in 1907, allowing for the creation of drum sets where one drummer could set the beat for all the musicians. The highlight of the museum was hearing other visitors making rhythm on a Congo drum.  We also learned about Louie Armstrong playing trumpet when he attended the school for Waifs. We left about 2:00 just as the rain began.